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Bill Rushin
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Joined: 14 Dec 2009
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Post Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:09 am      Post subject: Góralskie Ubrania - Highland Clothes
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To much research will make your hair turn gray. Take a break and view a few photo's.

A few folks are curious about the clothing the Highlanders wear. So I have been gathering some photo's of my relatives and friends for the past 6 months and I will try to explain what they are wearing. In Podhale they are not considered "costumes" because this is daily wear for some and it is still commonly worn. (part 1)



Black Chucha sleeve.jpg
 Description:
The "black cucha" (coo-ha) sleeve showing piping detail.
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Black Chucha sleeve.jpg



Goral 5 buckle belt.jpg
 Description:
The Highlanders Belt. These range from a small 2" wide belt to this very large 5 buckle belt with intricate tool worked designs in the leather. The size of the belt use to indicate rank of the shepherd.
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Goral 5 buckle belt.jpg



Highlander hat.jpg
 Description:
The Highlanders hat. Single men wear it with a feather in the band. The band is made of seashells brought by traders to Nowy Targ.
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Highlander hat.jpg



Close up of Parzenice.jpg
 Description:
The design is called a "parzenice" (par-zah-knee-sa). Old Austro-Hungarian soldiers had similar designs on their army uniforms, the góral modified this into many different patterns.
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Close up of Parzenice.jpg



góralskie portki ubranie.jpg
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góralskie portki ubranie.jpg




Last edited by Bill Rushin on Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:38 am; edited 5 times in total
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Bill Rushin
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Joined: 14 Dec 2009
Replies: 311
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:36 am      Post subject:
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(part 2)


Góral Copke winter hat.jpg
 Description:
Copke (cop-ka) In white or brown, warm winter hat is common.
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Góral Copke winter hat.jpg



Maria and Halina 09.jpg
 Description:
My Góralka friends Maria and Halina Bukowska.
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Maria and Halina 09.jpg



maria's shoes.jpg
 Description:
Women's "kierpce" and ankle lacing.
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maria's shoes.jpg



kierpce with ankle belt.jpg
 Description:
The footwear worn by both men and women are called "kierpce" (key-earp-sa) and they are made from leather . They are very much like moccasins. The ankle belt holds the mens laces tight on their ankles. Women do not wear these belts.
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kierpce with ankle belt.jpg



Black Cucha.jpg
 Description:
The "Black Cucha" coat. As you can see it's not black but brown in color. Mens jacket made with homespun wool cloth, decorated with embroidery and edging. In the old days it was a sign of wealth to own this type of jacket.
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Black Cucha.jpg




Last edited by Bill Rushin on Sun Nov 25, 2012 4:37 am; edited 6 times in total
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Bill Rushin
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Joined: 14 Dec 2009
Replies: 311
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:01 am      Post subject:
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(part 3)


Basia Monika Renatka Goralka.jpg
 Description:
My beautiful cousin's Basia, Monika and Renatka from Groń in their lovely góralski ubrania. Red coral necklaces are a old tradition.
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Basia Monika Renatka Goralka.jpg



spinki.png
 Description:
The "spinka" is worn as a ornament for the men's white shirt.
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spinki.png



Goralskie Serdok with Kistki.jpg
 Description:
The Serdok. (It's not a vest folks!) Lots of work to make one of these. Yes they are expensive.
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Goralskie Serdok with Kistki.jpg



White Cucha.jpg
 Description:
The white "cucha". Beautiful coat to wear to weddings or special occasions.
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White Cucha.jpg




Last edited by Bill Rushin on Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:10 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Bill Rushin
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Post Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:24 am      Post subject:
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My cousin Dawid Zarębczan (from Gronkow) now living in Chicago 8 years. He just turned 18 and since he is working now he started collecting his goralskie urbania and he told me what he experienced with obtaining his clothes.

Bill, All the clothes are available around here in Chicago but you have to wait as they are made by hand. I placed an order with this private woman and she made the pants for me for about something over a $100, I think it was $150 and I waited two months to finish. I think it's because she has lot of back orders. Then I bought my shirt in Poland and I'm not sure what the price was but probably something about $75. I don't have the big belt I only have the small one, the big one is actually expensive from what my grandma told me. I remember its about $200 to $700 because its all 3 ply hand made with intricate tool worked designs in the leather. Some have hundreds of brass stud type fittings laid out in certain patterns. Some are a high quality "same stud" design, some artisans insist that each stud be a different design. They sew in the brass or chromed belt buckles too.

The shoes (kierpce) are hand made type moccasins (either from cow leather, pigskin or sheep leather) and I got them here in Chicago and waited a while just like for pants and I think it cost a little less than $150. The ornament or the gold spinka or whatever you call it in English I got it from my grandma in Poland (about $50-75) and then I gave it to my neighbor to plate it gold. He did mine with a lot of other persons spinkas to make them gold also. He had some connection who did that in Germany or something and he send them all there at the same time, it cost like 150 pln I think. Then there is the serdok which is the jacket (without sleeves) it is up to 500 pln. Now all I need is a ciupaga (real ones are made of steel, the tourists have cheap cast brass heads) they cost $50 to $300.



Gorale Dawid.jpg
 Description:
Dawid looking like a Górale should!
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Gorale Dawid.jpg


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Bill Rushin
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Post Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 12:50 pm      Post subject:
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(part4)


matuesz ciupaga.jpg
 Description:
A nice ciupaga replica with a steel head.
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matuesz ciupaga.jpg



ciupaga dancer decal.jpg
 Description:
The decal on my car shows it all! Pants, belt, cucha, hat, feather and ciupaga!
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ciupaga dancer decal.jpg


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BobK
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Joined: 11 Nov 2008
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Post Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:24 pm      Post subject:
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Bill, thanks much for all those pictures.. Though the area is not of my Mother's, seeing genuine Polish clothing is a treat. I'm sure others will be enjoying seeing them for years to come.

Thanks much
Bob K.
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stasu



Joined: 08 Mar 2009
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Post Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:49 pm      Post subject:
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Great Pictures Bill! Thanks for your work in bringing our ancestral home closer to us.
Stan Bednarczyk
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Cyrwus



Joined: 14 Feb 2012
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Location: Brookfield, IL

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:03 pm      Post subject:
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I bought the hat for my wedding this past Oct and it was about $70 in Chicago
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klizzy



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Post Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 4:47 pm      Post subject:
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It is great to see examples of Polish clothing. I was really impressed with the decal as well...it's a piece of art just as the articles of clothing are.
Thanks for sharing.
Karen
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Bill Rushin
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 5:21 pm      Post subject:
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klizzy wrote:
It is great to see examples of Polish clothing. I was really impressed with the decal as well...it's a piece of art just as the articles of clothing are.
Thanks for sharing.
Karen




Thanks Karen, (and Bob, Stan, Ute and Mark Cyrwus for the nice comments) yes it is quite attractive if you know what it is. Some quotes I have seen about it on some other websites a while back made me laugh.

What is this? It's a sticker. I see it everywhere...trucks, semi's, compact's. Different colors too, but mainly in white.

"It looks like a gay Zorro maybe"

"More like a hockey player going mad.... I dunno".

"A dancer with an axe! Funny combination for sure".

You can buy the decals at certain Polish shops in Chi-town. Hmmm one for your laptop maybe!



ZBÓJNIK Robber.jpg
 Description:
The Tatra Robber is everywhere! (Za-boin-nik)
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ZBÓJNIK  Robber.jpg



polish decal.jpg
 Description:
It's on a Bug!
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polish decal.jpg


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DawidOC



Joined: 01 Sep 2012
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Post Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:26 pm      Post subject:
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Bill,

This is a very well done list and description of the Highlanders wear. I myself was born and raised na Podhalu. I moved to California when I was 14. I bought myself a white shirt with embroided black design, I believe I paid about $75 or less, I have also bought a belt, not as detailed as the one posted, it's simple with silver studs around made with real leather (will take a picture and post it), that one was 300 zlotych. I am trying to get pants next followed by spinka and kierpce, do you have any recommendations who I could contact to get them from or who makes them? I also have a quick question, I've been looking all over internet but can not find a single place that offers Janosik Hat http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSgwVIZS4QN_UKWlM8y2FYa0bHwVRgdRNHUtbRD_-k-wi9RQrGZBA&t=1
something along those lines.

Thank you and keep up the good work!

Forgot one thing, is there a online store where I can get Zbojnik decal / car sticker? I'd love to represent my heritage wherever I go and was thinking of getting a small tattoo of it somewhere.
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Bill Rushin
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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:30 pm      Post subject:
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DawidOC wrote:
Bill, .... I am trying to get pants next followed by spinka and kierpce, do you have any recommendations who I could contact to get them from or who makes them? I also have a quick question, I've been looking all over internet but can not find a single place that offers Janosik Hat. And is there a online store where I can get Zbojnik decal / car sticker? I'd love to represent my heritage wherever I go and was thinking of getting a small tattoo of it somewhere.


Dawid, many thanks for your nice compliments. I have two places in Podhale where you can purchase spinka and kierpce. I have asked Dawid Zarebczan for sources in Chicago but he hasn't answered me yet. I will leave him another note as a lady inquired about getting her husband some authentic pants made.

I'm glad you have mentioned Janosik. I need to write an article about this famous Tatra robber. I have several photo's of this type of hat and I'm sure that I can locate one for you. Please give me a few weeks to connect with my Polish cousins. And let me check with Ed on the Zbójnik decal source for you. If you get the tattoo you must post a pic!

Please post your gorale surnames and where your family is from Dawid. Dzieki Bill
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DawidOC



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Post Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:47 pm      Post subject:
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Bill,

I am in no hurry at all, thank you very much for the help with the items mentioned above. Looking forward to wearing them during dozynki or other special occasions.

I already have one tattoo, although it is not Goral specific it is Polish Smile

http://www.charismatattoo.pl/index.php?option=com_phocagallery&view=detail&catid=2:czarno-szare&id=138:gfdf&tmpl=component&Itemid=6
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Bill Rushin
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Post Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:48 am      Post subject:
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[quote="DawidOC"]Bill, I am in no hurry at all, thank you very much for the help with the items mentioned above. Looking forward to wearing them during dozynki or other special occasions. I already have one tattoo, although it is not Goral specific it is Polish Smile


Wow that is a great looking tattoo, very different. I like it and I hate tattoo's myself. lol

My decal came from Goskand Sports Intl Inc 5657 S Harlem Ave, Chicago, IL (I think it is a ski shop) (773) 586-2577. About $5 ea. they had black and white, unknown if there is other colors. (I think they have a machine that cuts vinyl letters is how they are made)
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Bill Rushin
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Post Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:51 am      Post subject:
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Harnaś (goral dialect) (przywódca zbójników in Polish) "Leader of the Highland Robbers" wore this style of hat. Every year they hold competition for this title of King and Queen of the Tatry. You must perform certain dance steps, throw a heavy timber, use a ciupaga, knowledge of how to apply a harness correctly and answer certain questions that only a true Górale would know. I'm not sure of all the women's tasks but they go through similar tests. The King is awarded this type of hat to wear.


Harnasie Champ 2011.jpg
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Harnasie Champ 2011.jpg



Goral Harnas hats.jpg
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Goral Harnas hats.jpg


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